Setting Up a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup requires cautious preparation and a lot of work. For the most part, you will require to do three types of jobs: framing walls, installing the pipes, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must pick the kind of shower that you wish to install. It is very important to establish whether the chosen shower can dealing with particular systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are designed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as kept hot water and cold mains).
It is likewise important to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be connected to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to set up. However, although the tube connection is easy, it is quickly removed. Additionally, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost choice and no extra pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with troublesome temperature control choices.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the previously pointed out mixers. They also need additional plumbing of cold and hot water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature control. Nevertheless, it is the most expensive of the different mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of an effective electrical pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is very important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit enables the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted by means of a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they stay unaffected by other taps in other places in usage within the home. A significant downside of electrical showers is that the control knob only permits the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a higher pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is colder. However, this problem is tackled in some designs which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you wish to install, the shower head need to either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drainage system to remove the drainage will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will likewise require to be considered if an instant or electrical shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide offered with the shower system to fit fixitrightplumbing.com.au plumber melbourne the shower control.
Before fitting the pipelines that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they must be given a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipes for any leakages, as some might need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to turn off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there need to be guidance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support below it-- possibly made up of struts and blockboards. If you pick this choice, the primary and circulation pipes will also need to be raised to satisfy the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to preserve maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. In addition, by minimising using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water system. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or disregarding regional code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.